The Leather story, from field to finish.

First Stop, The Tannery.

Hides arrive at the tannery heavy and stiff with hair intact; they bear no resemblance to what they will become. It’s the tannery’s job to convert these raw hides into finished leather, ready for the manufacturer. Hides first undergo a soaking and liming process to remove the hair. They are split into their approximate finished thickness by passing through a precise cylindrical blade which cuts the hide into two layers – the upper portion called “top grain” and the bottom portion called a “split.” We work only with the top grain layer, the superior portion of the hide, which makes the most aesthetically pleasing and durable of leathers. After splitting, the hides are tanned. They are now stabilized and can last for many years.

Grading Nature’s Handiwork.

Like gemstones, exotic woods or any natural material, hides vary in beauty and integrity. All manner of influences can effect their look and texture – genetics, environment and handling of the hide. What are they looking for? Character. Over its life every hide acquires a personality. The inevitable accumulation of wrinkles and stretch marks, run-ins with barbed wire, encounters with insects, thorns and branding irons leave “beauty marks.” All of these events combine to give each hide a distinctive character. Think of it as a canvas on which nature paints each animal’s history. The most aesthetically pleasing hides are selected for minimal processing. The rest are processed for consistency. Some people find this consistency more pleasing than leathers in a more natural state. After inspection and grading, the hides are shaved for uniformity, natural oils and lubricants are replenished in a process called “fatliqouring,” and the hides are stretched and dried to ensure maximum elasticity.

Re-tanning and Finishing: Where Leather Is Born.

Hides receive their first exposure to color in the re-tanning, or dyeing, stage. Called aniline dye, the liquid is translucent and permeates. The hide, much like stain on wood. These dyes do not camouflage; rather, they tend to bring out the natural character of the leather. Cell structure of each hide determines how dye is absorbed. Loose areas like the belly, for instance, typically accept more dye and appear darker. These subtle shading variations indicate that the hide has been purely dyed. Up to this point, all hides – regardless of the ultimate use of the leather – undergo the same tanning and conditioning processes. Any further processes are considered “finishing,” and it’s finishing that determines what type of leather the hide will become. Finishing can include any number of techniques such as buffing, polishing, waxing, application of top coats and water repellents, embossing or hand antiquing. All of these techniques produce a desired effect; whether it’s for aesthetic or performance reasons. For example, a household full of spill-prone teenagers will want a stain-resistant leather, while an exclusive New York men’s club might prefer a minimally processed, naturally marked leather. Finishing is a function for lifestyle; and only leather can so precisely match the lifestyle of its owners. One more reason that leather is the natural choice.

Pure Aniline & Full Aniline

The finest, pure and simple.

Also called “True Aniline” or “Naked Aniline,” Pure Aniline receives its only color during the tanning process. Pure Aniline is the most honest expression of leather you can buy. All of nature’s beauty marks will be evident, in their authentic, unvarnished glory. Pure Aniline leathers get better with age, absorbing minor scratches and nicks gracefully. Over time it will be as though your own life’s history melds with the original owner’s. Full Aniline leathers are Pure Anilines that have added one finishing step: a wax, transparent stain or topical coating, as a measure of protection. Full Aniline, like Pure, wears its natural character proudly. Though Full Aniline is slightly less vulnerable to stains and spills than Pure Aniline, neither is recommended for settings where “accidents” are likely a frequent occurrence.

Distinguishing ‘Character’ From ‘Defect.’

Signs of natural beauty markings include healed scars, cuts and insect bites, stretch marks, fat wrinkles, tight pores, backbone impressions and neck wrinkles.

Caring for Pure and Full Aniline.

Direct sunlight will eventually rob these leathers of their richness. Attend to spills immediately with a clean white cloth, blotting, never pressing on, the spill. Never use heat or soaps on these leathers. Should a spill penetrate the leather, gently massage the area with a clean white cloth lightly dampened with distilled water. Contact a professional leather cleaner for serious stains.

Nubuck

Buffed to a softness that belies a hearty disposition.

After aniline dyeing, these top grain leathers move on to a finishing process of gentle buffing and polishing that removes the top cell layer. The effect is a whisper-soft nap that adds a tactile pleasure to complement the visual beauty. Buffering only slightly obscures the hide’s color variations and natural markings. A wax or topical coating may be applied during finishing for protection. Nubuck’s softened countenance has made it popular for less formal settings and in busy households. Do not confuse Nubuck with suede splits, which are not top grain leathers. Nubuck has a strength and integrity that suede's made from splits can never match.

Distinguishing ‘Character’ From ‘Defect.’

Signs of natural beauty markings include healed scars, cuts and insect bites, stretch marks, fat wrinkles, tight pores, backbone impressions and neck wrinkles.

Caring for Nubuck Aniline.

Direct sunlight will eventually rob these leathers of their richness. Attend to spills immediately with a clean white cloth, blotting, never pressing on, the spill. Never use heat or soaps on these leathers. Should a spill penetrate the leather, allow the spill to dry. Use a suede brush, or a vacuum with drapery attachment, and brush the nap. If additional cleaning is required, gently massage the area with a clean white cloth lightly dampened with distilled water. Allow the area to dry and, again, use a suede brush or vacuum with drapery attachment. Contact a professional leather cleaner for serious stains.

Aniline Plus

 The perfect leather for an imperfect world.

Also called “Semi-Aniline,” “Finished,” “Painted” or “Protected” Aniline, Aniline Plus leathers have a pigmented topical finish added to even out the color. Aniline Plus also receives a clear topcoat that repels spills and stains. The result is a quality rarely associated with leather furniture: virtually worry-free maintenance. While Aniline Plus does not project the level of natural personality you find in Pure and Full Anilines, it sacrifices none of leather’s natural charm and durability. What’s more, Aniline Plus adds new dimensions that are relevant for today’s consumers. The smooth consistency of the colors – marries well with today’s interior designs. And its stain-and fade-resistance is ideal for high-energy households and high-traffic businesses.

Distinguishing ‘Character’ From ‘Defect.’

Signs of natural beauty markings include healed scars, cuts and insect bites, stretch marks, fat wrinkles, tight pores, backbone impressions and neck wrinkles.

Caring for Aniline Plus.

Although no material is totally impervious to the fading caused by sunlight, Aniline Plus holds up best. Rearranging the furniture on occasion will extend the life of its rich color even further. As for spills, most should blot up without a trace. Routine cleaning with a clean white cloth dampened with distilled water will eliminate the build-up of dirts and oils that can discolor the leather over time and break down the protective coating.

Leather’s never-ending story.

Leather’s story has endured for ages. Over the centuries leather has sheltered us, bound together our tools, helped us tame horses and livestock, and beautified our homes. It adorns the powerful, the common and everyone in between, in virtually every culture on earth. Leather is a living chapter of the human experience. Our impeccably crafted leathers will live on for years, through generations, and reach the status of family heirlooms.